Al contrario de lo que pueda parecer, cordobán y guadamecí no son términos equivalentes, sino que corresponden a dos conceptos muy bien diferenciados. En líneas generales, podemos decir que el cordobán nos define una piel curtida de gran calidad con una función eminentemente práctica, y el guadamecí se refiere a una técnica artística de la piel con la que se obtiene un producto con finalidad estética y suntuaria.
Orígenes
El cordobán tiene su origen en la ciudad de Córdoba, donde a partir de la Baja Edad Media se incorpora esta técnica de trabajo de la piel de la cultura musulmana. Así, Córdoba pronto se convierte en el mayor productor a nivel mundial de este producto y comienza a extenderse asimismo la producción de este producto por el resto de la península. Los cordobanes alcanzaron una gran fama y renombre, siendo exportados por toda Europa Occidental y por las colonias españolas de América.
Por su parte, existen al menos dos corrientes distintas para explicar el origen del término “guadamecí”:
La más extendida afirma que proviene de la ciudad libia de Gadamés, que se hizo célebre por sus curtidurías y marroquinerías, caracterizadas por estos ricos cueros labrados y pintados.
Por otro lado, recientes investigaciones apuntan a un origen etimológico que equivaldría a “cuero revestido y decorado”. Las formas antiguas como guadalmexir, guadamezir o guadamessí tienen una clara correspondencia con el término árabe masir, que significa “estar cubierto de vegetación”. Así, defienden que se formó a partir de la evolución de la locución wad' al-masir, que significa “de la condición del que es vivo de colores” o “del tipo de elaboración del que está rameado”, ambos significados muy acordes con la idea de guadamecí.
Método de elaboración
El cordobán consiste en piel de macho cabrío de gran calidad curtida con zumaque. La gran perfección de esta piel le confiere suavidad, flexibilidad, resistencia y durabilidad, motivo por el cual goza de un alto prestigio. A pesar de su principal uso práctico, en la elaboración de los cordobanes también se pueden (y se suelen) usar técnicas de repujado, gofrado, policromado, etc. (hablaremos sobre estas técnicas en posteriores artículos) para la confección de diseños y diversos motivos.
El guadamecí, por su parte, se trata de una técnica artística de trabajado de la piel caracterizada por la aplicación sobre la piel ya curtida de una fina lámina de pan de plata como capa de preparación para pintar o policromar de forma duradera la piel. El proceso clave es la aplicación de la lámina de plata, ya que es esta característica la que define claramente un guadamecí. A menudo se piensa que la diferencia del guadamecí respecto al cordobán es que el primer va policromado, pero no es correcto. En ocasiones, se usa corladura (barniz que, aplicado sobre una pieza plateada, la hace parecer dorada) para simular un efecto dorado en lugar de plateado, no obstante nosotros siempre usamos pan de oro para conseguir guadamecíes dorados.
Usos
El cordobán se ha usado desde época medieval para la aplicación y recubrimiento de arquetas, cofres, baúles y estuches y en la fabricación de zapatos y guantes de gran elegancia y lujo. Como ya hemos comentado con anterioridad, en ocasiones, a pesar de fin práctico y funcional, los cordobanes se decoran y ornamentan con motivos repujados, pintados o grabados para realzar su valor y suntuosidad.
Los principales usos del guadamecí, dada su funcionalidad claramente estética, decorativa y suntuaria, han sido históricamente el recubrimiento mural de interiores, tapizado de sillas y sillones, confección de cojines, biombos, cobertores de cama, cortinas y alfombras, y el recubrimiento de arquetas y cofres. Por otro lado, también se han usado con fines religioso en la elaboración de retablos, frontales y cobertores de altar, bolsas de corporales, cuadros de devoción, cojines y casullas.
No obstante, hoy en día ambas técnicas se usan con fines decorativos, y en una gran cantidad de ocasiones, como hemos podido ver en las imágenes que acompañan a este artículo, existen versiones en cordobán y en guadamecí del mismo artículo.
¡Si os sigue quedando alguna duda, os invitamos a preguntarnos en los comentarios y os responderemos encantados!
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